
Wire crimpers, strippers, cutters, connectors and shrink tubing are essential boat wiring tools. You have to have them on your boat. Simple electrical projects pop up all the time on a boat, whether it’s adding or replacing a piece of equipment, removing something, or repairing a broken wire or connection.
I learned the rudimentary principles of DC wiring in — don’t laugh — a fourth-grade “enrichment” class, where we wired lights, buzzers, switches and even electromagnets to 6v batteries. While it gave me a good introduction to circuits, it didn’t teach me much of the nuts and bolts of boat wiring.
BOAT WIRING REFERENCE BOOK
After trying to make sense of several different “boat wiring” books, I finally found Don Casey’s Sailboat Electrics Simplified which kept things pretty simple and straightforward for a beginner. I highly recommend it as this has gotten me through 90% of the electrical tasks I’ve undertaken (and I have done virtually all the electrical work on our boats). You may need other references, either online or in more advanced books, for particular projects but it’s a good starting point.
You can get Sailboat Electrics Simplified either as a stand-alone book or, for not much more, as part of his Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, which combines six basic reference books into one (read my review of it here). P.S. These are good basic reference books for power boats, too.
BOAT WIRING TOOLS
Neither Casey nor the other books I bought talked in detail about choosing and buying the basic boat wiring tools. Our first boat came with a complete set of electrical tools, which I used and honestly didn’t think about whether they were good or bad; I simply used them.
Our second boat — Barefoot Gal — didn’t have any tools aboard when we bought her. I went to Amazon, planning to buy the same oat wiring tools we’d had on Que Tal. Interestingly, I discovered that they all got pretty poor reviews. I investigated further and then bought a totally different set, spending a bit more.
We’ve now owned BG 3-1/2 years and every time I do an electrical project, I make some sort of comment about how much easier it is to do with better tools. Here’s a listing of my current boat wiring tools and why I like each one:
Wire stripper
My Neico wire stripper is probably the biggest improvement over tools I’ve used in the past. It just perfectly strips the wire every time, working on wire sizes from 10 to 24 AWG. It has never nicked or broken the wire strands, even on the tiny wires used in LED lights.
It’s still doing a great job after more than four years, contrary to the cheaper “automatic” wire stripper I had on QT (similar to this one) that had to be replaced periodically when it got too dull to cut cleanly through the wire cover. Further, the Neiko takes a lot less grip strength than the previous one, and is easier to set to strip exactly the amount needed with measurements written right on the tool.
It can also cut wire and make crimps but I prefer other tools for both of those tasks. I have also used the “pliers” style of stripper — like this — in the past and had mediocre results at best, with ragged cuts through the insulation and many nicks in the wire strands; it also takes more grip strength to get the leverage to pull the insulation off. This one is infinitely better.
Ratcheting Wire Crimpers
Ratcheting wire crimpers makes it possible for almost anyone to get a good, secure crimp. This particular crimper is simply easier to use than other ratcheting wire crimpers I’ve used.
First off, it makes a nice double crimp which is more secure than a single crimp. Second, the ratcheting function allows you to put the connector in the crimper, tighten down slightly so that the connector does not fall out, then put the wire into the connector, hold the wire with one hand and squeeze the handles together to make the crimp with the other.
While ratcheting crimpers should work this way, not all really do — either not being able to hold the connector without starting the crimp (making it impossible to slide the wire in) or requiring considerably more grip strength such that it took two hands for me to make a crimp.
Final point: ratcheting crimpers are designed so that once started, the crimp can’t be stopped until complete. That is, you can’t remove the connector and wire midway through. But sometimes something gets screwed up and you need to. Pretty much all ratcheting crimpers have a release lever, but some are infinitely easier to operate than others. This one is one of the easier ones.
Side Cutters
My side cutters aren’t anything different from what I had on QT, but I find side cutters (aka “wire cutters”) to be better for cutting the typical sizes of wire used on a boat than either the “wire cutters” that are part of strippers or crimpers, or large wire cutters designed for much larger wire (those have their place, I just don’t like them for smaller projects). I find a 6-inch pair to be the best size. You can find cheap “generic” ones in most home improvement and hardware stores, but the name brands tend to have better blades and an easier motion.
- Stanley 6″ Side Cutters on Amazon
Butane Torch
Marine electrical connections need to be waterproof, and this involves using either shrinkwrap connectors or putting shrinkwrap over a regular connection. Either way, you need to heat it for it to shrink and make a watertight seal over the wire and connector. Some people use a simple butane lighter, but I find that using the right tool makes the job a lot easier — and a true butane torch is much easier to use for other tasks such as heating seized metal parts to get them apart.
The butane torch I have now is far more adjustable than the first one I had, plus it stays lit (the previous one would go out with even the tiniest puff of wind). The one thing to remember about this one is that it is set up for hands-free operation — in other words, you have to actually turn it off, not just release the handle.
- Stingray Butane Torch on Amazon
- Spare butane canister (Amazon)
SUPPLIES
You can either buy connectors that have integrated heat-shrink tubing or separate connectors and heat-shrink. I prefer the separate as you can make the tubing however long you desire for a particular project and it’s cheaper.
Marine electrical connectors
Ancor brand makes good marine-grade crimp-on connectors. Avoid the temptation to buy the cheaper ones designed for cars and RVs — they’ll corrode in a marine environment and you’ll have to re-do all the connections (corrosion also increases the risk of an electrical fire).
Keep a selection of red, blue and yellow (the colors refer to the size wires they are for) butt and ring connectors. You may also need a few spade connectors and other types. If you’re starting from scratch, this is a good collection, then you can add others as the need arises:
Heat shrink tubing
Again, buying the Ancor tubing that is designed for a marine environment is worth it. I find that I use 1/4″ tubing the most often, but I do use enough of the other sizes that I keep all on hand (for most applications, you can cut a 6″ piece in two):
- Ancor Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing Kit (8 pieces, various sizes)
- Ancor Adhesive Lined Single-Size Tubing Kit (various numbers of pieces, all one size and either black or red)
CONCLUSION
Admittedly, I have a lot of other “electrical” tools and supplies such as a multimeter, fuses, wire brushes, larger wire cutters and so on. But if you are just getting started, these items are a good basic kit and then you can add items as you need them.
If you are doing anything with large cable — like battery cable — most brick-and-mortar marine stores (such as a local West Marine) have a work table with large cable cutters and crimpers so that you don’t have to buy them for a one-time use.
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Carolyn Shearlock has lived aboard full-time for 17 years, splitting her time between a Tayana 37 monohull and a Gemini 105 catamaran. She’s cruised over 14,000 miles, from Pacific Mexico and Central America to Florida and the Bahamas, gaining firsthand experience with the joys and challenges of life on the water.
Through The Boat Galley, Carolyn has helped thousands of people explore, prepare for, and enjoy life afloat. She shares her expertise as an instructor at Cruisers University, in leading boating publications, and through her bestselling book, The Boat Galley Cookbook. She is passionate about helping others embark on their liveaboard journey—making life on the water simpler, safer, and more enjoyable.
Bob Ashforth says
I also went with the approach of terminals and heat-shrink tubing, but made some different equipment choices.
This microtorch kit with multiple ends; one is for heat-shrink tubing and another for rope-cutting, which I used for my safety-net installation:
http://amzn.to/2yfzCfF
The Klein ‘all-purpose pliers with crimper; include strippers for a wide range of wires gauges, a cutter which cuts cleanly, a crimper which works well, and shearing for 6-32 and 8-32 bolt sizes.
http://amzn.to/2A1goay
Your list didn’t include any meters/testers, which I think are a necessiry. When my 25-year-old Sears multitester died, I chose this Klein kit:
https://amzn.to/3PYylg1
Thanks for all the info you put out there, hope this set of addenda helps!
Bob
Carolyn Shearlock says
Thanks Bob! My personal preference is NOT for the pliers-type of strippers, but that may be due to my lack of grip strength due to a badly broken wrist. Nice to know which ones you think work well. And I was going to put my multimeter in a separate post . . . it’s a vital piece of equipment.
Les Griffith says
If using plastic wire ties get a good set of End Cutters but make sure the blade is flat not beveled so there is not a sharp end to cut you. Better yet just use wire lacing and avoid pladtic ties for permanate installations.
John Alber says
Very helpful article.
I have used open flames in confined spaces, just like everyone else. But that’s a risk I now prefer to avoid. In gasoline-powered vessels, open flames have no place in bilges or engine rooms. And, even though we operate a diesel vessel, I still think about dust, stray propane, or other volatiles. So I use an electric heat gun. It is safer, and far less prone to char insulation.
I also prefer Ancor’s heat shrink terminals for marine work. It adds one more layer of protection to the connection, and the glue that oozes from the tubing to the wire insulation adds mechanical strength to the joint.
Paul says
Carolyn,
As always great tips, and timely since I was just going to replace a wire stripper.
I understand you (rightfully) get small compensation from Amazon when folks use your links to purchase. I personally prefer to use smile.amazon.com so that part of my purchase goes towards charity. Is there a way you can include smile.amazon.com links also? Thanks in advance.
Carolyn Shearlock says
I am sorry, but Amazon has not created a way to pass on smile links. And yes, I do get a tiny bit of compensation (at no extra cost to you) when people use my links — that’s what enables me to spend my time doing this instead of working in a local store.
Paul says
Thanks for the info … will Boat Galley link shop on Amazon and ‘personal’ shop on smile 🙂
Ernie says
Those wire strippers were in my Christmas stocking and they are the cat’s meow!
Jon M says
I just wish to confirm to the “average boat owner” that this list is a good and accurate one.
I build marine instrument panels and basically have the same equipment as listed above (different manufacturers but functionally identical). I often use a smaller size of side cutters about 4” long, with a smooth cutting edge- note that all cutters should be able to cut right up to the inner corner so as to always make clean cuts.
I also keep self-amalgamating rubber tape and dilectric grease in hand for making things watertight and corrosion proof. This stuff isn’t permanent but lasts a good few years before needing checking for degradation.
robert l waldrop says
I really appreciate this information. I am assembling a dedicated “electrical” tool box for our soon to be reality boat home, and while I have electrical experience and training, it was in relation to my military specialty, not a dedicated field. One thing I did that you didn’t mention was purchase a good multimeter – Some people prefer a test light, but I find a good multimeter is a very valuable tool either in a house, boat, vehicle etc. I already bought the exact same terminal assortment you listed, as well as the heat shrink assortment. From past experience of my own, the crimper you mentioned is definitely a must-have!
Brendan KLEIN BRETELER says
It looks like the book you are referring to Don Casey’s ‘sailboat electrics simplified’ was first published in 1999. Is there a more up to date book that you could recommend? It is this book updated to 2020 standards? I have a complete rewire to undertake and in looking for a good book to guide me through it.
Carolyn Shearlock says
I’d use a combination of Casey’s book and also get the latest edition of Nigel Calder’s. I like Casey for giving me a good overview, but Calder is much more advanced and is quite up to date. Calder’s Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, 4th Edition (2015) — see it on Amazon.
Rob Miller says
You are so right about the Nigel Caulder book, I am reading it now and am totally amazed at what I am learning. We are buying a 28 foot cruiser and this book is a must read.